So, we continue...
Nakuru to Kisumu, arrived 0430.
Road conditions: not. so. good. There were some smooth parts, but just as soon as you start falling asleep. Ka-thunk! Potholes (or maybe "road craters" is a more descriptive phrase), and you have to start all over again.
When we arrived at the bus depot, we had to wait for Stanley's friend, William, to come pick us at 0630. At this point we learn that we don't leave from Kisumu until 1030 or so, and then that there's a boat later than 1300. So we'll have a place to sleep and eat before the next leg of our journey. I saw on the news that it's in the 80s in Seattle. Sigh. I'm missing the great Seattle summer...but it's worth it! :)
Oooh, we rode on the back of a bicycle (baiskeli). It was fun!
Left William's around 10am to the Kisumu matatu stage, boarded a big matatu, and sat. Of course we had to wait to be entirely full before we departed. While we waited, we were presented with plenty of opportunities to purchase...well, essentially anything: belts, candy, soda, shirts, underwear, sugercane, etc. We didn't leave until 1115, but then proceeded to mae several other stops to load MORE on the roof before actually 'hitting the road'.
Finally, we're enroute to Lwanda:
These conductors are funny! There are four or five on these matatus to help load lugages (and you know the roof is piled high with all sorts of stuff...bags, boxes, house building materials, chickens, grains, bananas (and yes, I did say chickens). At the stage two of the conductors were fighting to climb on the roof (I guess they get a comission for loading), but these guys looked funny. They were trying to nudge each other off the ladder, and one guy was cleary ahead, by about half a body length. It was funny because it was kind of a slow motion, leaning into each other trying to get the other to back down. They were finally convinced to come down, but then proceeded to argue for another 15-20 minutes about who was up there first. They were really interrogating each toerh (shaking fingers in their face and even giving little taps on the cheak). The rest of the guys were laughing at them and trying to hold off a fight.
"IN-FLIGHT" ENTERTAINMENT:
*One stop we made before 'hitting the road'*
Conductor: (to a woman at the stage) "Do you want to board?"
Woman: (hesitating and not making any moves towards the door) "I don't know."
Conductor: "Well, we can't bring a chair to where you are standing!"
*You Just Stay Silent.
Guy on road: (yells) "Mzungu!"
I ignore him.
Guy: "Mzungu!"
I ignore again.
Guy: "Mzungu!"
I turn and wave.
Guy: (in a dejected voice) "I call after you and you just keep quiet!"
What am I supposed to do? Dive out the window and run up to him like an overly-enthusiastic puppy?!?!
*Here's a fun fact. We're not allowed to overload the matatus (i.e. everyone has to have a seat), but apparently that's only theoretical and we still pack the aisle anyway. When we come to a police checkpoint everyone standing just squats down to hind while we pass through and then prompty stands up again after passing...haha.
*Woman alights matatu and her bags are being handed down to her:
Conductor on top: "The rooster in this bag is dead."
Conductor inside: "Who's dead rooster is this?"
Woman: "The dead rooster in this bag is mine."
The rooster was in a wicker basket and was alive prior to riding strapped to the top of a matatu. I think I would have died too.
*There was a man who alighted wutg an almost empyt bottle of vodka. He didn't even know that was his stop so the conductors had to drag him off. Then he just stood by the road looking confused and swaying a bit. Ay caramba!
We arrive in Lwanda (at about 1400) to take the boat to Mbita (about 1 hour ride). Water is mostly calm. The boats are like long canoes (sort of like the Native American ones...not the aluminum kind) but they have a motor on back and are painted bright colors (like all public transit in Kenya).
Prepped for the crossing.
Lake Victoria! Fishing Boat in the distance.
Arrive in Mbita at 1500. and met a friend for lunch. The next (and last) boat of the day leaves at 1700. One this boat ride, we were entertained by a somewhat intoxicated man. I, being the only mzungu, was the subject of interest. He was convinced he needed my phone number and was using his best alcohol wisdom to explain to the entire boat why. ONe of these reasons was that if I was in a car accident, I would need to call him to be rescued. (I informed him that I would likely call the police, or a friend if that happened). Another reason was what if he fell off the boat and needed rescuing himself. To this I responsed that if he fell off the boat, his simu (phone) would no longer work, so having my number would do him no good.
Finally,about 1900, arrived in Mfangano. Just a short walk to Stanley's shamba. Phew, nataka kulala! (I want to sleep).
Sunset over Mfangano Island.
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